As always I tried to follow the workshop manual which means that I won't cover the whole process here, just some minor parts. The first picture shows you the "original" status of the Engine. The red color comes from my fathers total restoration, a couple of 1000km before the dismantling of the car. It will be changed back to black, semi-gloss. The following three pictures shows you the first part of the restoration process, which started in february 2003 when there was no more to do on the chassis. After having had the engine stored separately for almost 10 years I had it "sitting" in oil for a couple of weeks in case anything started to rust.
The sixth picture shows how I clean the cylinders before taking the pistons out. This was done in order not to damage the piston rings when I took the pistons out "upwards". The seventh picture gives you an alternative way to take out the intermediate gear for the timing chain. Then follows a picture of some chain stuff incl chain tightener, polished, white cad'ed and/or painted if necessary. The intermediate plate as well as the side covers were yellow cad'ed. The side covers had some pitting but I decided to do nothing about them. Maybe stupid but so it is. The outside was primed and the painted with the paint the block will have (see below)
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Then the engine went south again, to Peter Nilsson. His pictures probably speaks for themselves. Peter started with cleaning the cylinder block from oil paint and dirt. Thereafter it was honed with 300 stone. The crankshaft was checked and pistons cleaned and re-assembled.
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First a layer of Hagman's 2k primer was applied followed by black semi-gloss 2k paint from Standox. The flywheel was turned, assembled on the crankshaft and thereafter everything balanced. The last picture shows you the newly restored oil pump (more on that later...)
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Most of the pictures below speak for themselves. The cylinder head was dismantled one last time, double checked, oiled, assembled and then put where it belongs. The small black cover on the chest of the block will be stripped of its black paint and only yellow cad'ed. The finishing is beneath the paint and I'll try to remove the paint without damaging it.
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First the carburetor was totally dismantled, everything was marked and sketch was drawn how everything was assembled (note however, that you always forget to draw the most important thing and that it may have been assembled incorrectly). Thereafter the parts were washed with a carburetor cleaner from CRC. All plane surfaces (normally the ones where the gaskets etc sat) where leveled with hard, fine sandpaper (it wasn't sand, but I don't remember the term right now, sorry).
Then, everything was put back together again, with all holes stuffed up. And after that came the fun part, glass beading with 150-250 micron glass beads (which may a little to big?!) using 6 bar. This gave the carburetor its original finish back. Some small areas are however a bit granulous. The funny thing is that the items first looked rather blotchy, but after a couple of days the surface got an even, light grey color. All screws etc are re-finished in yellow and necessary gaskets, diaphragms and other items are ordered.
Sorry for the bad photo quality, there are more photos but I think they'll only be usable for me...
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After the beading I had to take a photo of all the parts involved (my girlfriend didn't like to have this or the assembly done in the kitchen). The last picture shows you the assembled jewel.
The only parts missing are the screws for the accelerator pump. Originally they where supposed to be M4*0,75 (why didn't they use M4*0,5 - fine?) which I also ordered from Karasch. Unfortunately, when the carburetor was overhauled ~15 years ago the shop "repaired" (awfully bad done though) these threads with M5*0,8 (coarse). I didn't realize this until now. This was followed by long discussions with the guys on the Ponton list as well as with the Swedish MB list with a lot of valuable ideas coming out. After some time I settled for the easy solution, installing Helicoil M5*0,8 (thanks for the help Colly Company) and bought screws looking like the original ones. They will be yellow plated as the rests of the screws and nuts. But I suppose that the other suggestions will come in to use on other parts.
Conclusion, be very careful with what threads you are working with. If you look in the spare parts book you can identify all screws and nuts that have these funny dimensions, M4*0,75 and M5*0,75. I don't think that you can find inserts for them but you can find taps and dices. With them you are able to make your own inserts!
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When the carburetor was overhauled, they installed new bushings for the throttle shaft, unfortunately not with rubber sealings. Instead they had milled a ~3mm large "hole" on each side of the float housing and sealed the shaft with plastic sealings in these holes. That didn't feel like a perfect solution. I didn't want to put in new bushings with rubber sealings so I tested a couple of rubber sealings to see if I could find anyone with a size that fitted my present situation. I did, so I went for the - in my opinion at least - second best solution. I smeared them with rubber grease and covered the whole thing with the plastic sealings I already had to protect it from dust. The shaft moves like it should and now I suppose it will by tight and let no air through for a lot of years.
See carburetor regarding process and photo quality!
On the fuel pump the intermediary flange is of aluminium. After the glass beading its surface gets a little bit too rough. This will probably be taken care of with the help of glass/bead tumbling (as with for example the cylinder head cover). Glass/bead tumbling gives beaded aluminium parts a slightly more glossy finish. Must however find a shop here in Stockholm that does that type of work.
I re-used the diaphragm, it isn't too old, and if it brakes it's quite easy to change. Thought I had to spare a few weak Swedish Kronor at least... In the right-hand corner of the "parts picture, you can almost (!) see the tapper for the fuel pump drive with its bushing and sleeve. Check the tapper for wearing. Using an ordinary puller it was an easy job to extract the bushing and insert the new sleeve. But remember to measure the bushings overhang, outside the intermediary flange - it's difficult to see when it's fully pressed in. I used a vise to press it in. The last picture shows the rubber sleeve behind the bushing. See the thorough article written by Doug on the Ponton pages.
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The restoration of the air filter I'm actually quite proud of too. The pictures are too bad to show the end result. Everything was glass beaded or sandblasted; if necessary buffed and then white cad'ed if not supposed to be painted to 100% (I had the control arm form the linkage pull rod to carburetor partly white cad'ed, partly semi gloss black). And yes, the air filter itself was more than thoroughly covered with 2-5 layers of tape and paper etc during the process.
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See carburetor regarding process and photo quality and fuel pump regarding finishing work to be done on the aluminium parts! Maybe the wire clamp with wing nut should have been white cad instead. Well, they're not now...
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The original status of the exhaust manifold was quite boring. But after sand blasting and the use of Eastwood's Factory Gray High Temp Coating the parts look like new. We'll see how sturdy the paint is. I've pre-heated the parts in the oven, at 275C for a couple of hours. In the pictures below the manifold has not been painted yet. Pictures will come.
The intake, made of aluminium, is glass beaded. I'll probably not spend time on tumbling the aluminium to give it a little bit more glossy finish and I'm also a little bit afraid of getting tumble media stuck inside the channels in the intake.
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In my case the pump itself was perfect, completely tight - I could pump white spirit with slow turns of the shaft. The problem I had was with the drive shafts. On the first three pictures (taken with my cellular phone Ericsson P800 in bad lighting conditions...) you can see that the connection between the oil pumps shaft and the helical gear, that also connects to the distributor, was worn. These parts are "quite" expensive and if you choose to change them I would also change the rest of the drive mechanism (which in my case was in perfect condition, almost no wear at all); the intermediate gear shaft in the cylinder head as well as the other gear in the oil pump (or the whole pump itself...). After a lot of discussions with technical people, my engine restorer, ponton advisors etc I came to the conclusion that a repair of the shafts would be good enough for how I'm going to use the car. The end result of that can be seen in the fourth picture.
I also had the two housing parts slightly leveled/smoothened. After assembly of the housing I got a slight resistance when turning the shaft. I re-oiled and re-assembled a couple of times with no luck. Was the money spent on fixing the shafts useless? I handed it over to Peter and resigned said, "Do whatever you can, if it doesn't work, we buy a new pump etc...". Lucky me, the problem was easy to solve, just twist the two housing parts slightly until the resistance disappears. Another stupid mistake from my side...
One alternative would have been to choose a pump from a W114/115 with higher a flow. Would however meant some rebuilding and I don't intend to drive the car faster and harder than I did when I was 20 - and the pump seamed to work under those conditions too.
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So far only a picture of the original status...
The pump had "originally" been given a very black appearance by my father. Restoring the water pump is rather straightforward. One problem I had was the venting screw. Both the screw and the threads in the bearing housing were damaged. MB helped me with the first issue and Colly company with the next (fine threads). Another thing was the shaft. I had some rust spots in it, just below the impeller. The rust was however so minor that we decided to let it be. Water would hardly be able to sneak through the sealings, into the housing. The housing itself was also glass beaded and leveled by Finmekanik in Järfälla. With new bearings (sealing taken off), sealings, pressure spring it was assembled in a beaded and tumbled water pump housing. The first picture of this housing shows it too glossy. This was redone by Svenska Trumlingsaktiebolaget, giving it a perfect lustre! It may be that some of the screws etc shouldn't be yellow cad'ed but white ditto. However, I think the pump works and is placed in a rather "aggressive" environment so I went for the more durable method. Note also that the new screw from MB was yellow and I didn't want to re-finish it. The flange on the bearing housing should also be bare metal but I chose to rust protect it with semi gloss black paint.
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The engine support underwent the normal procedure; dismantled sand blasted, white or yellow cad'ed painted and - together with new bushings - assembled again.
Tja, a glass beaded and tumbled clutch housing and then a couple of pictures of the release fork with the old, first type of release bearing.
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